At a glance
Paris stimulates the senses, demanding to be seen, heard, touched, tasted and smelt. From romance along the Seine to landscapes on bus-sized canvases to the pick-an-ism types in cafes monologuing on the use of garlic or the finer points of Jerry Lewis, Paris is the essence of all things French. Gaze rapturously at its breezy boulevards, impressive monuments, great works of art and magic lights. Savour its gourmet selection of cheese, chocolate, wine and seafood. Feel the wind in your face as you rollerblade through Bastille, or a frisson of fear and pleasure atop the Eiffel Tower.

When To Go
As the old song says, Paris is at its best in springtime, even if it is sometimes a little wet. In winter Paris has all sorts of cultural events going on, while in summer the weather is warm and lazy - sometimes sizzling. In August, when Parisians flee for the beaches to the west and south, many restaurateurs lock up and leave town too, but this is changing rapidly and you'll find considerably more places open in summer than even a decade ago. Things can get a bit hectic around Bastille Day and towards the end of the year so reservations at this time are a good idea.

Places to See
Many of Paris' significant sights are strung along its river, and its quartiers each have their own distinct personalities, so you can experience a lot without covering much ground. The museums, monuments and the two islands are a magnet for visitors but it can be just as rewarding to wander.

Places to Eat
Every restaurant with a fistful of Michelin stars inevitably seems to have a Parisian chef with a Gallic temper and a way with jus. Eating well in this city isn't an option - it's a duty, usually policed by the aforementioned chef. Overeating is not de rigueur - an amuse-gueule will do just fine.

Night Time Venues
Whatever your tastes, you'll never be bored in Paris. Music lovers can bounce from grand opera to smoky little jazz clubs to cabaret and end the night with some uplifting house or salsa. The cinema and theatre options are boundless, and the exhausted can recover in a series of stylish bars.

Places to Shop
Paris is a sublime place to shop, whether you're someone who can afford Lacroix or just an impecunious lèche-vitrine (window licker). Many quartiers still specialise, and the myriad boutiques are often worth a visit in themselves. The lively flea markets are full of bargains.

Tipping
French law requires that restaurant, cafe and hotel bills include a service charge (usually 12% TO 15%); however, many Parisians leave a few coins on the table in a restaurant, unless the service was particularly bad. They rarely tip in cafes and bars when they've just had a coffee or a drink. In taxis, the usual tipping procedure is to simply round up to the nearest €0.50 or €1.00 no matter what the fare.

CITY BREAKS TO PARIS