At a glance
The now and the next are invented daily in Milan, Europe's creative capital. Until Milan led the way, who knew that happy hour could last four hours, that clothing and household appliances could be made out of basketry, and that coffee could make a delicious pasta sauce? This city is all about worldly pleasures. Shopping is of quasi-religious significance. Theatre and cinema flourish in this fashionable milieu, as does a hopping club scene and a slew of tempting restaurants. Apart from a few gems, the city is not renowned for its looks; it's lifestyle that counts.

When To Go
Most of the year Milan is as comfortable as a cardigan: not too hot, and not too cold, either. There are occasional summer heat waves and springtime cold snaps, and the odd hailstorm can bring on brilliant blue skies the next day. During the entire month of August a calm descends over the city as the Milanese head for the nearby hills and lakes.

Places to See
Milan is a sprawling metropolis, but most of its attractions are concentrated in its centre. Its hub is the Duomo, a fantastic Gothic confection topped by the Maddonina (our little Madonna), Milan's protectress. Not far away is La Scala, one of the world's great opera houses.

Places to Eat
Eating is one of Milan's great pleasures. The city has a strong provincial cuisine, featuring polenta, risotto scented with saffron, and pannettone. Bone marrow is elevated from dog's dinner to art form in the traditional osso buco. There's an endless choice of places to eat.

Night Time Venues
Milan has some of Italy's top clubs, cinemas and bars. The main theatre and concert season opens in October. A fabulous year-round cultural calendar is topped off by La Scala's opera season, which opens with a splendid splash each year on 7 December, the city's patron saint's day (Sant'Ambrogia).

Places to Shop
Milan ranks alongside Paris and London as one of Europe's greatest places to shop. Fashion is its lifeblood, and the famous Golden Quad houses some of the world's most exclusive boutiques; the city is also known as a leader in design, with shops selling rare and original furniture, paper and cars.

Tipping
You are not expected to tip on top of restaurant service charges but you can leave a little extra if you feel service warrants it. If there is no service charge, the customer should consider leaving a 10% tip, but this is not obligatory. In bars, Italians often leave small change as a tip. Tipping taxi drivers is not common practice, but you are expected to tip the porter at top-end hotels.

CITY BREAKS IN MILAN