At a glance
After an extreme makeover lasting more than two decades, Barcelona has transformed itself into one of the most dynamic and stylish cities in the world. Summer is serious party time, with week-long fiesta fun. But year-round the city sizzles - it's always on the biting edge of architecture, food, fashion, style, music and good times. The buildings, especially the work of the eccentric genius Gaudí, will blow you away. The art, with significant collections by Picasso and Miró, will make you clammy all over. The people, with their exuberance, their creative spirit, their persistent egalitarianism, will fascinate you.

When to go
The combination of tourists and business travellers visiting Barcelona means hotels are busy for most of the year. Spring and early summer is the best time to be in the city. The weather is usually pleasant, the number of tourists manageable and the city humming. High summer (mid-July to late August) is asphyxiating - many locals get the hell out and leave it to the guiris (foreigners). September isn't bad; the city recovers its normal rhythms, the heat eases and tourist numbers drop, but the weather can be dodgy. For real rain, hang about in October. Winter isn't especially distressing, but you will want a room with heating.

Places to See
The wild and whimsical architecture of Gaudí enlivens the streets of Barcelona and makes for some of the finest city-walking in the world. The art will beckon you from museums and streetsides. The vibrant central drag, La Rambla, will lead you to the city's marvellous medieval quarter, Barri Gòtic.

Places to Eat
No matter what your budget or belly size, you'll find something to suit in Barcelona. It teems with establishments dishing up everything from tiny tapas to gargantuan feasts. Catalunya produces a variety of fresh seafood, meat, game, and fruit and vegetables, which are combined in unusual and delicious ways.

Night Time Venues
Barcelona is bursting with pubs, hedonistic gay bars and frenetic clubs, and the whirr of live jazz, rock, flamenco and salsa is never far away. The calendar is crammed with holidays and festivals, and Barcelonins are usually buzzing with the anticipation of an upcoming event.

Places to Shop
It may not have been the lure of shopping that brought you to Barcelona, but it will be one of the reasons you come back. You can load up on international and local jewellery and designer threads, or hunt down antique shops and artisan workshops stocking whole worlds of engaging junk to sift through.

Tipping
You are not expected to tip on top of restaurant service charges, but it is common to leave a small amount, say €1.00 per person. If there is no service charge, you might consider leaving a 10% tip, but this is by no means obligatory. In bars, Spaniards often leave any small change as a tip, often €1.00. Tipping taxi drivers is not required, but you should tip the porter at higher-class hotels.

CITY BREAKS TO BARCELONA